Come to the beautiful crescent-shaped beaches of Valdanos, nestled in a cove on the southeastern shores of the Adriatic Sea. Wake up to a beautiful Montenegrin sunrise peeking over thousand year-old olive tree groves. Play fútbol on the grass fields or try a round of mini-golf. Tennis courts are a stone’s throw away from the ocean. Afterward grab a quick lunch at the waterside café, or take a dip in the pool!

The resort has laundry, post office, and a supermarket for your basic needs. Every villa has sweeping views of the sea. For those who prefer to caravan, a full-service campground is also on the premises. Valdanos offers 240 sunny days a year, but for the restless at night the discotheque should whet the appetite.

There is one problem… It has been closed for years.

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Background

The sheltered bay is about 3 miles (5 km) northwest of Ulcinj, the closest city center in Montenegro. The beach stretches nearly 2,000 feet (600m) long and acts as a barrier between the ocean and the largest preserved olive grove in the Mediterranean, over 400 thousand square meters with 18 thousand olive trees.

Vegetation overgrowth covers abandoned trailers at Valdanos now, but it wasn’t always this way. For thousands of years generations of peaceful residents tended to their olive trees, establishing tradition along the way (example: A man would plant an olive tree before he could marry his bride).

Pirates and shippers alike have sought shelter in Valdanos bay for protection from the harsh winds. Armed conflict has left more than a handful of Roman, Greek, and Medieval shipwrecks on the sea floor. Wrecks of submarines are also rumored to reside in the area, which is considered a rich underwater archaeological site.

Residents of Valdanos have been expropriated from their land twice in the 20^th century. The first instance came in 1949 when the government wanted to establish a state-run agricultural program. When this failed, residents re-claimed the land.

The second expropriation came in 1978 when the Federal Secretariat for National Defense of Yugoslavia claimed the land for military purposes.

Existing owners were given meager compensation well below market value, and forced to leave.

(click thumbnails to enlarge)

  

photographs courtesy Andrei Sfarlea

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Plan A: Military Base

The residents didn’t realize it at the time, but it was their local representatives who betrayed them. In 1976, city officials desperate for cash or industry hatched a plan to propose the site of Valdanos to the Yugoslav military as a location for a base.

The Montenegrin officials earned a meeting with the Federal Secretariat for National Defense a year later; the concept was an easy sell.

When the citizens heard of the army’s plans to destroy the olive groves for a military base, public outcry was overwhelming. The Federal Secretariat eventually acquiesced and settled for a smaller portion of land between the olive trees and the water.

The expropriation began in 1978. Residents were dispossessed of their property and given a meager compensation of 10 cents per square foot ($1 per square meter), and $60 (£36/€43) per olive tree.

The offer was an insult, but with rumors circulating of arrest facing those who wouldn’t sign, few dared to fight the takeover.

Of the 200 families displaced, 184 accepted the initial terms. The sixteen brave enough to decline and sue the state were later awarded three times the original amount.

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Two years after the residents had been removed, the military base had yet to materialize. In 1980 the country was battling recession fueled by an eventual Western embargo over the country’s excessive borrowing.

When Yugoslav “President for Life” Josip Tito died on May 4^th that year, a shift in power meant a shift in priorities.

  

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Plan B: Military Resort

Short on funds and no longer needing a perimeter naval base, the military decided to use Valdanos as a resort for its forces instead. Plans were drawn for a resort featuring villas, campgrounds, and temporary housing.

Construction would take a little over two years before it was officially opened on April 26^th, 1983.

Varied accommodations were available, depending on means or rank. A campground was available for the frugal visitors, lower-ranking, and outdoorsmen. The next step up was one of 150 trailers. Larger families could chose from 78 prefabricated homes.

Officers and the better-off made use of the 29 duplex homes while two exclusive private villas were usually reserved for the highest-ranking officials or important guests.

  

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The region’s topography allowed for stadium-seating layout of the villas, which were staggered on the hills with breathtaking views of Valdanos Bay. Medical care was handled by a first aid point; a local switchboard was established for telephone services.

The resort’s relative isolation from the nearest town also required Valdanos to have its own supermarket. For good measure, a pastry shop was established as well.

  

A restaurant with large covered patio (pictured above) offered diners a 270-degree view of sunsets across the bay.

Guests were treated to live music at the café next to the restaurant. For beach access, a spiral stairway led visitors from the restaurant and lounge area down to the water(pictured below).

photographs courtesy Andrei Sfarlea

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Video of Valdanos during heyday:

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Volatile Time for a Vacation

By the early 1990s the turmoil in Yugoslavia had boiled over; four countries would claim independence between June of 1991 and March of 1992 (Croatia, Slovenia, Macedonia, Bosnia and Herzegovina).

The new Federal Republic of Yugoslavia was formed in 1992, and it included Montenegro (who did not gain independence until May 21, 2006).

Despite Valdanos’ isolation, its geography did not insulate the resort from civil unrest affecting the region. After Croatia claimed independence in 1991, the Yugoslav Navy was forced to leave Croatian ports.

The fleet’s ships migrated south, crowding the Montenegrin Bay of Kotor, 70 miles (113km) north of Valdanos.

In December of 1993 Yugoslav Navy Rear Admiral Dojcilo Isakovic announced intentions to assume control of Valdanos and convert the resort back into the original plan for a military base. However Montenegrin response was negative and the Supreme Court subsequently failed to authorize the project.

For the time being, Valdanos was spared – but only from the military.

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Closing

The economic viability of Valdanos had been driven by its affordable and easy access to all citizens of the former Yugoslavia. When the country dissolved, the Croatian and Slovenian visitors dwindled. The Montenegrin Independence referendum separated the country from Serbia in May of 2006, removing Valdanos from its largest remaining client base.

In 2007 the fewer visitors resulted in hard times for Valdanos. The resort was on the brink of bankruptcy and a weakening global economy left prospects for continued solvency bleak.

Abandoned prefab & duplex residences

  

  

  

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Sections of the resort were shut down to lean the operation, but it was too late. The resort wouldn’t last until the end of the year.